We have all heard the story. A former lawyer — or
investment banker, computer programmer or teacher — makes a gutsy career change,
leaving the conventional job market behind to start producing small-batch
artisanal sorbet. Or ricotta, chutney or sourdough bread. But what happens when
enough of these craft food mongers start making similar products — say, iconic
Jewish foods? As food lovers in San Francisco have learned, that’s when things
get interesting.
Take Wise Sons Jewish Delicatessen, a recently
opened eatery located in San Francisco’s Mission district. Founded as a pop-up
restaurant in early 2010 by Evan Bloom (a former architect) and Leo Beckerman (a
former nonprofit employee), Wise Sons serves house-cured pastrami on homemade
rye bread, and babka densely swirled with bittersweet chocolate and cinnamon
ganache to a nonstop queue. Or consider the Old World Food Truck, whose founder,
chef Kenny Hockert, left the traditional restaurant kitchen to peddle
from-scratch Eastern European dishes like mushroom pierogi and brisket borscht
at pop-up events in the Mission and plans soon to serve them via a food
truck.
There is also Bubala’s Rugelach, launched by
editor-turned-professional “rugelista,” Ellyn Hament, who bakes homemade
versions of the company’s namesake pastry in both traditional and inventive
flavors (think mocha made with artisanal coffee and cocoa powder). And after
decades of bearing the reputation as a place void of “real bagels,” the Bay Area
finally can host its own version of the Montreal vs. New York bagel debate with
the help of two start-up companies. Beauty’s Bagel Shop in Oakland recently
began selling sweet, wood-fired, Montreal-style bagels while Schmendricks in San
Francisco boils up chewy New York-style bagels.
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